Mills we work with

Mills we work with

Our selvedge denim is woven on traditional shuttle looms at Collect Mill in Okayama, Japan — the same region synonymous with the best denim in the world.

The mill runs nine TOYODA GL-9 shuttle looms, released in the 1980s. There are no replacement parts left for them; two broken units are kept purely to cannibalise for parts. Vintage shuttle looms are roughly a third as fast as modern looms — but a modern loom cannot produce a true selvedge edge, and can’t be hand-tuned the way a shuttle loom can. That control over warp tension and weaving speed is what gives the fabric its character.

The indigo itself is rope-dyed with Sakamoto Denim, one of Collect’s key partners — bundled yarn is repeatedly soaked and exposed to air, oxidising gradually into the fabric’s signature blue. It’s a slower, ECO-conscious process that uses less water and fewer chemicals than conventional dyeing.

Full story on our Mills and Trims page.

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